Dunie Studio
DUNIE x ALCOVA Milano 2025
Küzem jün / Wool theories captures Dunie Team’s desire to learn from Central Asian nomadic crafts techniques centered around wool.
In Kazakh there are several terms that refer to sheared wool depending on the season and the purpose it will subsequently be used for. Küzem jün refers to the wool that is sheared in the fall, therefore there hasn’t been a long time since the summer shearing and the wool is short, easily cleaned and felted. This is the wool used to make any household items, carpets and applied art oeuvres.
Taking into consideration that for many centuries wool items were a central piece to come up with shelter, to decorate them, to create everyday use attributes and persevere through the harsh weather on the territories of nomadic cultures of Central Asian we wish for this traditions to find its continuity in us. Through the project Küzem jün / Wool theories we, as both design studio and young cultural practitioners are trying to learn the ways of wool, felting, shym shi (reed mat weaving) to understand its qualities. Mobility, resilience and durability for critical realities.
Process
Our very first result in this on-going research took form of a shym-shi (weaved steppe reed mat) and syrmaq like carpet. Made in collaboration with local artisans and avid craft learners we bring to Alcova 2025 a fruit of our collective labour.
Shym shi is an ornamented tapestry made of steppe reed (chi in Kazakh). For shym shi artisans cover each shi with coloured wool and weave them together afterwards to create a colourful matt-like piece.
Currently due to ecological and infrastructural changes in the region this technique is almost extinct. For the installation Küzem jün / Wool theories at Alcova 2025 we used water reed since it is easily found and provides more volume.
For us at Dunie Studio it is really important to start working on these experimental pieces in order to find the way to preserve the technique and reconnect to the culture of tapestry making with nature-based materials.
TEAM
Concept and design: Aïda Adilbek and Assel Nussipkozhanova
Technical Development: Gulzhakhan Ongarova
Visual Communication: Yuliya Khan
Shi weaving specialist: Aigul Kyrykbayeva
Junior Assistants (Shi weaving): Aiya Sapar, Yerke Alimbekova, Alima Altynbek, Adiya Ashirali, Altynay Rakhmadiyeva, Uljan Tuyak, Zamira Bulekbayeva, Meruyert Kabibolla, Dariya Temirkhan
Junior Assistants (Wool felting): Dariya Arshabayeva, Nuraiym Onğar, Ayaulym Baqytzhanqyzy, Shûğyla Shalqarqyzy, Balym Karl, Sûltan Karl, Inju Nüssipbay, Alma Maratqyzy, Ayana Sayatqyzy, Adil Tursynov, Adal Rauanûly, Tûyaqbay Balym, Qadirbek Zhansulu, Serik Asylzhan, Melisbay Aqniet
Framework draft: Amira Imel
3D visualisation: Kasen
Special thanks for help in material sourcing to Yerkin Igenev, Erbol Igenev, Abai Adilbek, Abylai Adilbek and Said Atabekov
Küzem jün / Wool theories
at Alcova Milano
We presented our work Küzem jün / Wool theories at Alcova Milano this year.
Dates: 7-13th of April
Location: Villa Bagatti Valsecchi, A9